Write a travel article on how to spend three days in Lisbon. Keep it between 650 and 850 words. Reply with only the finished text, with no preface or closing remarks.
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# Three Days in Lisbon: Hills, Tiles, and Custard Tarts
Lisbon rewards those who wander. Draped across seven hills above the Tagus River, Portugal's capital is a city of pastel facades, rattling yellow trams, and *miradouros* (viewpoints) that appear around every steep corner. Three days won't exhaust it, but they're enough to fall for it. Pack comfortable shoes, because the cobblestones are beautiful and unforgiving.
## Day One: Alfama and the Old Heart
Begin early in Alfama, the city's oldest neighborhood, before the tour groups arrive. Climb to the Miradouro das Portas do Sol for your first sweeping view: terracotta rooftops tumbling toward the river, punctuated by church domes and bell towers. From there, continue up to São Jorge Castle. Its Moorish ramparts offer one of the best panoramas in the city, and peacocks wander the gardens. Allow about two hours.
Descend on foot through the maze of alleys, past laundry strung between balconies and tiny tascas grilling sardines. Stop at the Sé Cathedral, a fortress-like Romanesque church begun in the twelfth century. For lunch, look for a small restaurant offering the *prato do dia*, the dish of the day. It's usually grilled fish or stewed pork, often with a drink and coffee included for around fifteen euros.
In the afternoon, walk down to Praça do Comércio, the grand riverside square framed by yellow arcades. Pass beneath the triumphal arch onto Rua Augusta and into Baixa, the orderly grid rebuilt after the devastating 1755 earthquake. Climb toward Chiado to see the roofless Carmo Convent, its Gothic arches open to the sky. Skip the long queue for the Santa Justa Lift unless you really want the ride.
For the evening, head to Bairro Alto for dinner. By night the narrow streets fill with locals sipping drinks outdoors. If you want fado, Lisbon's soulful, melancholy music, book a small venue in Alfama and arrive hungry.
## Day Two: Belém and the Waterfront
Spend the morning in Belém, a short train ride from Cais do Sodré or a ride on tram 15E. This district is where Portugal's Age of Discovery is celebrated in stone. The Jerónimos Monastery is the highlight, a dazzling example of Manueline architecture with carved cloisters that seem almost lace-like. Buy tickets online to avoid the line. Nearby, the Belém Tower stands guard at the river's edge, and the Monument to the Discoveries juts out like the prow of a ship.
Then make the pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém, which has been baking custard tarts since 1837. Eat them warm, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The line looks daunting but moves quickly, and you can often find a seat inside.
Walk or ride along the river to the MAAT, the museum of art, architecture, and technology. Its sloping, tiled roof is open to visitors and makes a great spot to watch boats drift by. Continue on to LX Factory, a former industrial complex tucked beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge. It's now a lively cluster of bookshops, design studios, and cafés that suits a leisurely lunch.
Finish the day with a ferry from Cais do Sodré across the Tagus to Cacilhas. A short stroll along the water leads to riverside restaurants where you can eat fresh seafood as the sun sets behind Lisbon's skyline. It's the best view of the city, because it's the one where you can see the whole thing.
## Day Three: Sintra, or Tiles and Markets
You have two good options for your final day.
**Option one: Sintra.** Trains from Rossio station reach this fairy-tale town in under an hour. Choose just two or three sights rather than rushing through everything. The candy-colored Pena Palace is the star, perched on a forested peak, while the mysterious Quinta da Regaleira has gardens riddled with tunnels and a spiraling initiation well. Take a bus or taxi between sites, since the hills are steep. Be back in Lisbon by evening for a final dinner.
**Option two: stay in the city.** Begin at the National Tile Museum, housed in a former convent. Azulejos, the painted ceramic tiles that decorate so many Lisbon buildings, are the country's signature art form, and the museum traces their history over five centuries. Afterward, browse the Feira da Ladra flea market near the National Pantheon on Tuesdays and Saturdays, then spend the afternoon at the Gulbenkian Museum, which has a superb collection and calm gardens. Finish with a glass of *ginjinha*, a sweet cherry liqueur, at one of the tiny bars near Rossio.
## Practical Tips
Spring and autumn offer the best balance of mild weather and manageable crowds. Buy a rechargeable Viva Viagem card for public transport, and consider a Lisboa Card if you plan to visit many monuments. Tram 28 is charming but packed and a favorite of pickpockets, so walk its route instead or ride early in the morning. Finally, order bacalhau at least once. The Portuguese claim to have a recipe for every day of the year, and you'll want to taste at least one.